Traction Alopecia

Traction Alopecia is a condition that causes hair loss this is caused by excessive pulling and tension on the hair and scalp. If the problem is not addressed it can lead to irreversible hair loss.

This is a preventable condition if you look after your hair and scalp properly and follow these tips;

• Avoid: Wearing very tight hair styles such as ponytails , cornrows and tight braids can cause damage over time by the constant tension  and tugging that is put on the hair and scalp. If it feels too tight or uncomfortable this could lead  the development Traction Alopeica.

• Avoid using hair extensions, this leads to pulling of the hair due to the weight of the extensions, These extensions if applied with glue are removed with acetone!  This not only will damage your hair but can also damage the follicle .

• Avoid regularly colouring your hair, the reason being that the chemicals used will dry out your hair leaving it dry and brittle and prone to breakage. For example if you were to bleach your hair and add in extensions with glue your hair and scalp will have more stress put upon it, this could lead to unwanted bald spots on your scalp.

The best thing for your hair and scalp is to just learn to love your hair as it is. This will give your hair a chance to recover and repair itself. So no bleaching , use of heat tools or extensions are needed. The less you do to your hair the longer your hair will be in the end ,and the less chance of permanent hair loss.

What is Isopropyl Alcohol?

Isopropyl alcohol is a solvent. It is also a denaturant that changes another substances natural quality. It is a petroleum -based substance.

Isopropyl alcohol has a powerful drying affect on the hair and skin. In some cases it can cause
the hair to become brittle and split. Isopropyl alcochol is used in hair products (such as hair
spray) to increase the absorption of other ingredients into the hair follicles. This ingredient mainly is found in hair dyes and rinses.

Moisturising shampoos and products may also contain Isopropyl alcohol to aid the absorption of the conditioning ingredients, which can make your hair dryer than it was before due to the alcohol content.

Brazilian Blow Out and the dangers of Formaldehyde

So what is a Brazilian Blowout? And why is it bad for you? This is a process straightening the hair using chemicals, this product claims to protect the hair by adding a protective protein layer round the hair shaft resulting in smooth straight glossy hair . Sounds great doesn't it? The problem with the product is that it contains dangerously high levels of Formaldehyde.

This is a known carcinogen. Customers and Hairdressers have suffered a number of reactions, these include eye and nervous system disorders, chest pains, vomiting, rashes and respiratory problems. Australia, Canada, Ireland, France, and Germany have banned the Brazilian Blowout due to Formaldehyde.

The scary thing is that Formaldehyde is used under different names for example. When Methylene glycol is heated up it produces Formaldehyde.

Formaldehyde can also be found in shampoos under the ingredient name called Quaternium-15. This is a preservative that kills bacteria by releasing Formaldehyde. Both of these chemicals can cause rashes and potent allergens to the human body. Formaldehyde is also found in other beauty products particularly nails varnishes and nail hardeners.

What is Chelating Shampoo?

What is a Chelating Shampoo? you may ask? A Chelating shampoo is used for lifting mineral deposits that are in your hair due to hard water in your area. A regular shampoo cannot remove the mineral build up, these minerals can really bind into the hair and do not wash out. A clarifying shampoo will only remove product build up, not mineral build-up caused by hard water or chlorine deposits. 

Chelating Shampoos are only needed if you have hard water or you are a swimmer. If you get chalky water marks on your shower screen you have hard water. Also if you wash your hair and it stills feels coated this can be due to the hard water rather than the shampoo. Other signs that you have hard water is that your hair will feel dry (no matter how much you condition) and limp and may even brake off.

You can use a Chelating Shampoo once a week or month depending on how hard your water is . The Chelating agents in the shampoo are;

Disodium EDTA

Tetrasodium EDTA

Sodium Citrate AKA Trisodium Citrate

PH levels of hair

   Potential Hydrogen (pH)

The pH, is the measurement of how acidic or alkali a substance is. This is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. Hair has a pH value of 4.5 and 5.5 this can be a good indicator if you are using the correct products for your hair and scalp.  A pH of 7 is considered neutral  anything above 7 is alkaline and any below 7 is considered acid based.

If you disrupt the natural pH balance this can lead to fungi and bacterial growth. The incorrect correct pH balance also affect your cuticle. If a product is too alkaline this will cause your cuticle to open. If a product is too acidic the cuticle will contract.

 If you have dandruff , fungi or bacteria on your scalp you are washing your hair with a product of a pH above 7 making your scalp too alkali. You are stripping away all of your sebum (which is acidic)

most shampoos will be more alkaline and have citric acid added to them to lower to pH. Too much citric acid can dry out the scalp and hair.

 When looking for the pH of shampoo it should be on the acid side, this will be better for your hair and scalp as it is milder. Most shampoos have a pH value of 7 or 8.  Shampoos designed to give you volume will have the highest pH value making it more alkaline, this will plump up your hair shaft making it full. This is bad for your hair as it leaves the cuticle open to all sorts of damage caused by everyday styling.

Lemon juice and vinegar have a pH value of 2 or 3 and baking soda has a pH of 8 or 9 which is why it makes your hair feel like straw. I would never recommend baking soda for your hair or scalp for this reason.

Co-washing update and Silicones!

Well Co-washing is amazing but, and there is a but a big BUT! you have to get the correct conditioner if you are going to use it instead of shampoo. So what I discovered is to avoid all conditioners (and shampoos) with Cones in (silicones that is). The problem with silicones is that they form a seal round your hair shaft. This prevents anything being absorbed into the hair shaft leading to dry brittle hair. The silicone coating on your hair will make it feel very soft and silky but can also make your hair limp and greasy depending on your hair type. Using these products daily means that any deep conditioning treatments or hair oils you apply will not be able to penetrate the hair because of the silicones present.

So when I used a conditioner with silicone in it made my hair limp, waxy, heavy and greasy. I have now switched to a silicone free one and my hair is much more bouncy and less limp. I will continue Co-washing and maybe wash my hair once a week with a gentle clarifying shampoo just to keep residue at build up at bay. I don't want waxy hair ever again!

There are two types of silicones, water soluble and non water soluble ones. The water soluble one will cause the least amount of build up for your hair. For non water soluble silicones you will need a good clarifying shampoo to remove them. Here is a list of what to look out for when shopping for products;

Water based silicones are called;                             
dimethicone copolyol 
lauryl methicone copolyol 
amodimethicone
Hydrolized wheat protein 
hydroxypropyl polysiloxane

Non water based silicones are called;
trimethylsiloxysilicates 
trimethylsilylamodimethic 
amodimethicone
phenyl trimethicone 
dimethicone/ol
cyclomethicone 
cyclopentasiloxane 

IMPORTANT UPDATE

 Some people have have experienced excess shedding from co- washing I cannot find any evidence on this, just what some people have claimed. My conclusion would be that depending on what conditioners you use , the type of hair you have and any other medical issues. Other factors to consider is that the conditioner coats the hair weighting it down (possibly silicone based conditioners)  or the conditioner blocks the hair follicles at the roots. 

What is Co-Washing?

So I am ever searching for the perfect natural alternative to conventional shampoos, because lets face it traditional shampoo is amazing  at the moment I can find nothing that matches up to its cleaning properties.

The downside to traditional shampoos is that you will  find that they are very drying and irritating to the scalp. This can cause a whole host of problems such as dandruff ,contact dermatitis and dry brittle hair that knots and tangles quickly.

Shampoo is a harsh cleaning agent due to an ingredient called Sodium Laureth Sulfate. This is one of the most common ingredients in your Drug Store shampoo.

So while researching I came across a method called Co-washing, this is where you wash your hair with conditioners only. This method keeps the moisture and natural oils in your hair.

How to co-wash

Wash your hair as normal, you will not get a lather as you are using a conditioner instead, just work well into your scalp with the tips of your fingers, make sure you rinse your hair really well. Just use a little more conditioner than you would normally use.

 I have not tested this out yet but in theory it sounds like a pretty good idea. I like the idea that it preserves the natural oils in your hair. Other benefits is that it helps reduce knots and tangles and keeps your scalp hydrated. Using a natural organic conditioner may give you a better result and you will cutting back on the chemicals that are found in conventional products.

I will try this and give you an update if I end up with soft hair or lank locks.


IMPORTANT UPDATE

 Some people have have experienced excess shedding from co- washing I cannot find any evidence on this, just what some people have claimed. My conclusion would be that depending on what conditioners you use , the type of hair you have and any other medical issues. Other factors to consider is that the conditioner coats the hair weighting it down (possibly silicone based conditioners)  or the conditioner blocks the hair follicles at the roots. 

What is Cetyl Alcohol?

So I was in Boots the chemist today when I spotted some Ultra  Moisturising Conditioner, (Boots Botanics Brand) as it was reduced in price I thought I would try it. So I scanned the ingredients and came across an ingredient called Cetyl Alcohol! What! alcohol is bad for your hair right?

But the added rice bran protein and honey will soften my hair and cancel out the drying affects of alcohol?

I was not a happy bunny, so I googled Cetyl Alcohol and this is what I found;

Cetyl alcohol is a lubricant and thickening agent used in a variety of products. Also referred to as palmityl alcohol, it is a synthetic fatty substance made from oils that reduces the surface tension of a liquid. It is most commonly found in shampoos and conditioners, since it can make hair feel smooth and soft. It's also used to thicken lotions and other cosmetics, as well as for lubricating industrial machine parts, like bolts and fasteners. (1)

So its a lubricating agent for machine parts! Right glad I cleared that one up!

 It is made out of coconut and palm oils and has nothing to do with Alcohol in the conventional sense. I will also make your hair soft and not dry, so Cetyl Alcohol is ok to use in hair products.

Alcohol In Hair Products

A lot of your favourite hair products will have Alcohol in them to act as a preservative this will protect them from microbes, act as thickening agent ( hair gels) and keep your products fresh for a year or two.

Using a product containing alcohol will evaporate instantly when applying to your hair taking your hairs natural moisture levels with it,  continued use will lead to dry 'crunchy' hair.

 Each strand of your hair is protected by a cuticle, (this is the outside layer which protects the inner layers). When your cuticle becomes dry it causes the inner hair fibres to dry out making your hair dull and frizzy.

This is not good for your long hair goals so it is best to avoid using hairspray's and gels. if you must use them use sparingly and always give your hair a rest and a deep condition your hair . Using Aloe vera gel as an alternative will tame down any frizzy hairs and add moisture to your locks.

When choosing a product look at the label for these words, then you know that the product contains alcohol (then avoid your hair will thank you); 

1. Alcohol denat 

 2. Alcohol denatured

3. Menthanol

4. Isopropyl

Split Ends

So how many of you have split ends? lots of them? a few? Well here is how to minimize the causes of split hair. Split hair or ends is called Trichoptilosis, this is when the protective cuticle is destroyed at the end of the hair. One of the main causes of this is excessive use of heat tools, other factors include;

1. over use of styling products that contain alcohol, (alcohol denat), this dehydrates your hair
2. Too many chemical treatments (bleaching or perming)
3. Environmental damage, from hot or cold climate issues
4. Not getting regular trims.
5. Using cheap hair styling tools ,cheap combs and brushes that snag your hair
6. Sea water and chlorine and UV rays
7. Over washing your hair this will strip out the natural oils.
8. Back-combing hair

 Once the hair follicle splits the only way to remove it is to cut it. Cut your hair with proper hairdressing scissors a 1/4 of an inch above the split end. You can do a search and destroy mission on your hair . This is where you take a section of hair and look for any splits then destroy! (trim). This is a good method if you are growing out long hair. Do a deep conditioning treatment once a week and use coconut oil to keep the hair hydrated preventing dry split ends.

coconut oil

 If used correctly this amazing oil will have a significant impact on achieving your long hair goals. It will also make your nails stronger and keep your skin hydrated.

The best coconut oil is extra virgin coconut oil , this contains the essential fatty acids which maintain the moisture levels in your hair and scalp. Hair that is properly moisturised will be less prone to split ends and breakage. Regular use of coconut oil will make your hair become strong as the oil has the ability to penetrate deep into the cortex of your hair shaft maintaining softness and strength .

Packed with vitamin E Coconut oil also promotes a healthy scalp keeping it hydrated as it contains natural antibacterial, anti- fungal properties and anti- parasitic properties. This will promote a healthy scalp and faster hair growth.

Coconut oil is solid at room temperature, to use coconut oil take a small amount and rub into the palm of your hands till its melted. Stroke into the mid lengths and ends and then massage into the scalp, use sparingly to avoid the greasy hair look! Use as a pre-wash conditioning treatment to maintain the protein levels in your hair, this can happen due to styling and hair products stripping natural oils

A link is posted below on where to buy extra virgin coconut oil

http://www.coconoil.co.uk/?gclid=CNqp5tTd0LICFcfKtAodgTQATQ

Welcome

So where do you start? Where do I start!!

Well a good place to start is to say hello. I am currently growing out my hair to well as long as it wants to get. As I was researching I began to become obsessed with facts and tips to make your hair grow.

Some ideas were well, lets just say strange, (for example I won't be putting anti fungal cream on my scalp to promote hair growth? ) to experimental.

Anyway there will be photos of my hair progressing over the months (watch out Rapunzel) and lots of tips and advice so keep watching and keep growing your hair.

See you soon
Amber